August 15, 16, 17 - Rockland, ME to Port Clyde, ME (Port Clyde General Store and Marina)
Since we decided to turn around at Camden and not venture on to the Mount Desert Island area, the comprise was to visit Monhegan Island. And the recommendation was for us to moor at Port Clyde, ME and take the ferry over to Monhegan Island - 9 miles out.
Port Clyde is quaint and used to be a fishing town exclusively until Linda Bean of the L.L. Bean family decided to change all that and create a tourist trap of which we fell into. We learned that the townspeople are not too charmed with Linda Bean, who owns the general store (only store), who owns the lobster company, who owns most of the land, who buys up family owned businesses - oh well, let’s just say she doesn’t receive the hugest kudos from locals around this area. We had drinks with a very nice couple moored next to us and she was/is an investigative journalist and uncovered this information while she was here by just asking the locals many questions. Reported - Linda Bean makes 16 million a year from the family business, but she still seems unstoppable in commercializing Port Clyde.
After we arrived and got settled we took a dinghy ride around the area…..and yep, the darn thing quit running….took forever to restart (and yep, we’d gone too far out) and when it did start up it would only putter us back….but at least we did not have to row all the way back.
Went into town and to the general store to have lunch (before we learned the Linda Bean connection) and asked about out board services….there were none. I kept thinking it would probably start right up tomorrow.
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| lobster tub at General Store |
Since the launch service ended at 5 or so, I visited the store for dinner provisions, we had BLTs and salad on board. Before we started this trip i could not imagine running the generator while out at a mooring for fear that we would greatly disturb our neighbors….but it bothers no one but us…and you really don’t notice it at all until you turn it off and think, ‘ahhhh, the quite.’
August 16 - Ferry to Monhegan Island
Woke up this morning excited….for several reasons; my baby sister turns 50 today - Happy Birthday Jan Dudley, and second, someone else drive will be driving us over to Monhegan Island.
I had been craving a walk in the woods. We’ve had 3 months of water, waves, coastlines but not much walking in the woods visiting the trees. So my main goal was to wander through the trees, to be in the middle of the woods.
The morning was cool and we sat up top on the starboard side of the ship which held about 60-70 people, that's as many that actually live on Monhegan full time! And wouldn’t you know that we were seated right next to a family who talked incessantly, the entire trip, about the most weird things….like 30 minutes on the Avengers and why Spider-man had more superpowers than Ant-man - it had something to do with Ant-man’s antennae and on and on and on…(Whose ever heard of Ant-man?). It was if this family of four (yes, all four talking almost at once) did not sense that there was anyone around them at all - i was offended by how loud and constant their voices were. every little thought that came to their minds came pouring out of their mouths. unbelievable. while the waters were calm the trip over was rough due to their ‘noise’….
Ahh, the island in sight….
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| Mañana, part of Monhegan Island |
The island is 1 square mile in area, no cars, no paved roads, but has 12 miles of trails! A major reason i chose this island to visit was that artists have flocked here for over 100 years to experience the slow pace living and to paint the beauty of the area. So i thought, i want to see what they see in this place.
As soon as we disembarked the magic scenes of the island were abound. I could not stop taking pictures…. I guess that’s what artists see - pictures everywhere.
To me this place feels and looks different from other Maine places we’ve been. A Scotland type look. On Manana, a part of Monhegan, there lived a hermit and his pet duck and goats…hermit died, the goats still graze and i don’t know where the duck is. But this beautiful rugged island adds to the artistic appeal for sure.
We started our hike on the port side of the island toward a trail that takes us through the woods and then connects back up to the main trail that takes you up to the lighthouse and the museum.
As we started in i said maybe we'll see another Fairy house... Such a comment did not even get a rise from Harry...in fact, i think this type of comment from his new wife scares him.
And there it was about 5 minutes later....another Fairy house. I feel it is so special and somehow mystic/enchanting finding one of these. Harry was ahead of me during the hike and so later I excitedly asked him, 'did you see the Fairy house?' He didn't. Why do i see them and he doesn't? Is it a female, attention to detail thing or do some men find them as well? It makes you wonder how many you don'r see. it makes my heart sing to find them - i feel blessed. also what struck me as awesome was the quietness in the woods - we could not hear anything loud....and i thought if you listened really hard you could hear the earth composting. Harry didn't hear it, and now he really thinks I'm crazy. Foot falls seemed very cushiony from the combination of several layers of heavy moss and heavy pine needles.
Coming out of the woods was a downer but once we turned the corner and headed up a hill the view was absolutely a huge 'upper'!
The Monhegan Museum was housed in the old lighthouse on the top of this hill...we ventured in to take a look. The museum has a massive collection of the fishing history, artists history, locals history, and lighthouse caretaker history. We learned that after the island was occupied by 'the white man' the native americans would watch and wait for the white men to 'go out' to fish, thus the island has a dark history when a massacre occurred and women were raped and killed by the indians. A tale is that the island's name derived from the Indian's massacre .. mon he gon = man he gone.
We also learned of the many famous artists who were part of the artist colony here: Robert Henri, Frederick Waugh, George Bellows, Edward Hopper, Rockwell Kent, Jamie Wyeth.
Also learned that i want to be considered a Monhegan Island 'Rusticrat' - those city folk who come in late summer to the island and play 'roughing it' for a few months. I'm sure they're adored by the locals...
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| Many artists were creating pictures from this vantage point |
The following pics are from walking down the other side of the island....excuse all the pictures but as you can tell i feel in love with this place...
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| winter's reminder |
And lastly is this picture i spied that made me think of Andrew Wyeth.....This is my 'Christina's World' - apologies, Andrew.
